A first attempt at Coptic stitch

Coptic binding is the one that made me fall in love with the craft. The spine is left uncovered, so you can see rows of chain stitches linking each section to the next, and the finished book opens completely flat. That makes it perfect for sketchbooks and journals. It also looks harder than it is, though my first try was decidedly lumpy.

The structure in brief

A Coptic book is made of several folded sections, called signatures, plus two separate covers. Every section is sewn to its neighbour with a chain stitch at each sewing station, and the first and last sections are sewn directly to the covers. There is no glue on the spine at all.

Preparing the parts

For my second, much better book I used:

• Eight signatures, each of four folded sheets.
• Two covers cut from stiff board, covered with decorative paper on the outside.
• Four sewing stations, punched through each signature with a punching guide.
• Matching holes in each cover, about one centimetre in from the spine edge.
• Waxed linen thread and two curved needles, one for each end of the thread.

Curved needles are not essential, but they make it much easier to slip under the previous stitches.

Sewing, simplified

I will not describe every movement, because Coptic stitch is easier to learn by doing than by reading. The basic rhythm is:

• Sew the first signature to the front cover at each station, looping around the cover edge.
• Add the next signature and sew through its stations.
• At each station, before going back inside, slip the needle behind the stitch connecting the two previous sections. This creates the chain.
• Repeat for each new signature, keeping the tension even.
• Sew the final signature to the back cover the same way as the first.

What went wrong the first time

My first book had several problems, and they are probably common:

• The thread was too loose. The chains looked pretty but the sections wobbled. Gently snug each stitch as you go.
• The holes in the covers were too close to the edge, and one tore through the board. One centimetre in is safer.
• I let the thread tangle around itself constantly because it was far too long. Shorter lengths and adding new thread with a weaver's knot work much better.
• I forgot to check that all signatures faced the same way. One went in upside down.

What I changed

For the second book I used a single punching guide for every signature and the covers, so the stations lined up perfectly. I waxed the thread a second time, which stopped it fraying. I worked more slowly and paused after each signature to check the spacing.

The result was even, tight and much more satisfying. The chains form neat braids running across the spine, and the book opens flat on the table without any pressing.

A good journal binding

Because it opens flat, a Coptic book is lovely to write or draw in across both pages. The exposed spine is slightly fragile if the book is roughly handled, so I keep my Coptic journals for use at home and carry a sturdier case binding when I travel.

It took three attempts before I made one I was truly happy with. That seems to be the honest number for most new stitches.